…And Miki from Chrono Cross.
Kefka! …Or Cefca. Drew it in the time it took for Dancing Mad to play. Which…. is a really long time actually. …Since when did this song have words?
Nasty - Tony Parker
Man, I want a Tony deck. I seriously need to make a dark deck and just glue him onto another card. >__>
Hulkin’ Up - Manu Ginobili
hahaha wat… And wait, Manu is a normal type? Well, okay. YEEEAH NORMAL
YERBA MATE POWER
This is a tutorial for the cheapest and most effective (for the price) compost heap I can think of. Also, once you do this, fertilizer and good dirt is FREE. It’s sustainable and all those fun fancy things.
Materials:
20 feet of 2’high chickenwire/ poultry netting or 10’ of 1/4”-1/2” hardware cloth
(25’ of 2’ wide chickenwire cost me $12. Hardware cloth would have been maybe twice that.)
Tools:
snips or wire cutters
yardstick or measuring tape
Optional but very recommended things:
GLOVES. I did this without gloves. I was bleeding by the end. (If you wait for winter, you also get SLEEVES. Which would have been awesome.)
Shade and/or a fan. It was hot.It took longer than I expected.
Something to repel mosquitos. I killed over 50 BY HAND. Burn incense, wear one of those fan repeller thingies, do it inside a giant net. Anything.
Doggies. Mosquitos think they’re more delicious, and they make break time more fun. …I did bring doggies, yes.
Important things to know:
Chicken wire hates you and all those you love.
You killed hardware cloth’s mother and it wants vengeance.
Both want to see you bleed.
This is supposedly the minimum size for optimal composting. It needs to be big enough to have a core of warm for optimal bacterial growth. The spaces in the wire are important, because the bacteria needs delicious air, or it will die.
Also, uhh, there’s lots of bacteria in there. You never know what exactly is in it, so if you have cuts or something, don’t stick you hands in, and don’t eat it. It’s has rotting food in there.
Firstly, consider where you wanna put the thing. It’ll be around a 3’ diameter circle. I had an out of the way place where grass never grows, and was right by my veggie garden. Also, decide if you want to bother with method one, or method two under this one, which I haven’t tried.
Firstly, unroll the mass of chickenwire. It should have maybe two yards of wire around it, which should be enough for said project. (It it isn’t wound with it for some reason, you need wire. If you can tie with it, it’s good.) It will expand a bit, unless you used hardware cloth. Hardware cloth will probably spring and try to take out an eye. Try to lay it flat and measure out 9 1/4’ - 10’ out. For chickenwire, you need to do this twice. Hardware cloth only needs one. I really wouldn’t recommend trying to make the loop with just one 20’ piece of chickenwire, it will only bring despair.
Chickenwire has much bigger gaps between the wires, and everything will fall out. So you want to try and have two giant loops, staggered over eachother. Hardware cloth is more like metal graph paper, is usually a thicker gauge, and you’ll only need one loop. Chickenwire should be notably cheaper, but it wants everything but to be in a giant loop.
Tie the two ends of chickenwire/hardware cloth together with a couple inches of overlap. Use the pieces of wire it came with. As long as it holes together sorta tight, it should be fine. Tie it down near each end and once in the middle. If you’re using hardware cloth, maybe tie a few more just for extra stability and you’re done! If you used chickenwire, you made an amoeba and have finished the easy part.
Go to the other end of your metal amoeba, and tie the end down of the second sheet, again in three places. Now, every foot or two, tie it down once in the middle. Try to make the sheets staggered, you’re doing this because the holes in it are too big. It won’t be perfect, but, you’re kinda filling it with rotting garbage, so, you know, doesn’t matter really.Once you make it all the way down, tie the end three times. If you’re missing a few inches, it should be okay.
Now, try and form it onto a circle. Maybe try and roll it. Jump inside and kinda try to form it. Really, it doesn’t matter. Go place the thing and fill it with leaves, plant cuttings, veggies that are going bad, sawdust, tea leaves, coffee, all kinds of plantbased ‘used’ things. Dried leaves provide carbon, while fresher things have nitrogen. Water it and mix every week or so. You shouldn’t need to use anything to bolt it to the ground, but if you live in a windy place or something, maybe you can find a type of hooked stake.
TYPE 2:
I haven’t tested type two. This is purely theoretical and was my original idea that I scrapped because I’m cheap. I’d recommend chicken wire for this one. one 20’ long piece should work.
Additional tools required:
2’ long metal poles, at least 6 for a circle, 4 for square
Clean area to put the bin, and place the posts in a 3’ diameter circle or 3’x3’ square. Tie end of chickenwire several times to one pole. Wrap the rest around the entire circular frame twice, and tie off like the first. Maybe tie a few random spots. Begin composting. Yay~
Note: Many animal based foods like meats or fats will stink or attract animals. …Or both. (eggshells are okay though.) Bury all fresher things in the brown dead parts. The smaller all the peices are, the more surface area is availible for bacteria to live on, and everything will fall apart faster, but its not necessary. The more variety of veggiescraps and whatnot your pile has, the more variety of nutrients and bacteria you will have. Look for lists online. Some kinda conflict, but alot of the basics are the same. But if you eat your plants, don’t use your pet’s poop. You don’t know what’s in there. I’ve also thought about getting a 3’ or so inch wide pvc pipe, drilling some holes randomly in the last two feet, sticking it into the pile, and pouring water down it, so that water gets in everywhere. Haven’t tried it though.
…If all this fails, dig a hole, fill it with leaves and rotting food. Come back in several months. YAY.
